How I Shot It: Dodgers World Series Panoramic from Elysian Park (12×36)

I hiked into Elysian Park on World Series weekend and captured 18 high-resolution frames during Game 1 at Dodger Stadium, then stitched them into a seamless 12×36 panoramic print on archival luster paper. Below is the exact plan, gear, settings, and post workflow I used—so you can see how the shot came to life.

The Vision

I wanted a view that felt like LA: the stadium lights, the skyline glow, and that electric World Series energy—all in one frame. A single photo wouldn’t hold the detail I wanted for a large wall print, so I designed it as a multi-row panoramato preserve stadium textures, crowd color, and those tiny details you discover when you stand close to the print.

Location Scouting (Elysian Park)

Elysian Park offers several overlooks with a clean angle into the bowl of Dodger Stadium. I pre-scouted during daylight to:

• Confirm unobstructed sightlines (no tree limbs or signposts in the stitch path)

• Plot a safe path in the dark

• Note where the stadium lights flare the strongest so I could position slightly off-axis and reduce glare

Tip: Arrive early to test a few heights and positions; a two-foot shift can fix or create stitching headaches later.

Timing the Light

I aimed for early night during Game 1—dark enough for dramatic stadium contrast, but not so late that haze and blown highlights overwhelm the midtones. The first 30–45 minutes after the lights come fully alive is my favorite: you get glow, but also a touch of sky tone.

Gear I Used

• Camera: Full-frame Nikon D850

• Lens: 70–200mm (shot near the short end to minimize edge distortion and keep perspective consistent)

• Support: Sturdy tripod + leveling base (critical for smooth pano rows)

• Remote/2-sec timer: To avoid shake

• Extras: Headlamp with red mode, microfiber cloth, extra batteries

Capture Settings (Representative)

• Mode: Manual

• Aperture: f/8–f/11 (sweet spot for sharpness across the frame)

• Shutter: ~1/80–1/200s (fast enough to freeze micro-movement in the stands and reduce stitch misalignment)

• ISO: 64 

• WB: 4000–4600K (keeps the sodium/LED mix from going neon)

• Focus: Manual, set mid-stadium; verify with magnified live view

• Drive: Single shot, HDR Images overlap 35–40% per frame

Why these choices? Stadium lighting is bright but contrasty. I wanted clean, crisp edges for stitching and print, so I kept aperture in the middle and shutter reasonably quick.

The Panoramic Technique (18 Frames)

I shot two rows of frames, 3 images each with different exposure — left to right for Row 1, then right to left for Row 2—keeping ~40% overlap. The overlap gives the software plenty of anchor points and helps tame subtle parallax. I leveled the tripod first, then made tiny corrections with the leveling base so the horizon and stadium tiers line up naturally.

Pro Tips for Consistency

• Lock exposure and lock WB so every frame matches.

• Let the camera settle after each pan before you fire.

• Keep the lens at a consistent focal length (zooming mid-pano causes warping).

Post-Production Workflow

1) Lightroom Classic (Ingest & Pre-Grade)

• Apply a light global grade to all images before the stitch:

  • Exposure: +0.10 to +0.35 (scene dependent)

  • Highlights: −15 to −30 (save light towers and scoreboards)

  • Shadows: +10 to +25 (lift seating without milky blacks)

  • Whites/Blacks: Nudge to restore contrast

  • Texture/Clarity: +5 to +10 (use sparingly—detail will pile up in print)

  • WB: fine-tune to keep whites neutral, not blue or green

• Sync these settings across the set so the stitcher isn’t fighting mismatched tonality.

2) Stitching (Lightroom “Merge to Panorama” or Photoshop)

• Projection: Cylindrical or Perspective (test both; I often prefer Cylindrical for stadiums)

• Boundary Warp: 10–30 (just enough to square edges without bending the stadium geometry)

• Auto Crop: On (I’ll extend canvas in PS later if needed)

• Check for any mismatched panels—if you see a misalign, try re-merging with fewer frames or adjust your pre-grade.

3) Photoshop (Precision Cleanup)

• Lens corrections (if not already applied)

• Smart Sharpen on a high-res flattened duplicate (view at 50–100% when judging)

• Selective dodge/burn to emphasize the diamond, crowd bands, and skyline glow

• Remove tiny distractions (rogue hot pixels, edge artifacts)

4) Print Prep (12×36 on Archival Luster)

• Final file at 300 ppi @ 12×36 inches

• Soft proof for your paper/printer profile; gently adjust saturation to avoid clipping blues in seat rows or LEDs

• Export as 16-bit TIFF for the lab or a max-quality JPEG if required by your printer

• Add the design elements: concise series stats (bottom left) and short series description (bottom right) on a discrete, legible line

Why Luster Paper?

Luster gives you the best of both worlds: enough sheen for rich color and contrast under indoor lighting, but with reduced glare compared to glossy—perfect for a large panoramic where viewers move side-to-side.

Framing Tips

• 12×36 panoramic frame with a slim black or brushed metal profile keeps it modern

• If you love negative space, add a 2" mat (white or soft gray)

• Hang with a level; the horizon line makes crooked frames obvious

FAQs

Is this a single photo?
It’s a stitched panorama of 18 frames for maximum detail in a large print.

Can I get it signed?
Yes—front signature, back signature, or no signature at checkout.

Does it come framed?
No. It ships rolled in a protective tube so you can choose your own frame.

Shop the Print

Ready to add this to your wall? Grab the 12×36 archival luster panoramic here: Los Angeles Dodgers World Series Panoramic by Chris Fabregas (Featured Collection).

https://chrisfabregasfineartprints.com/collections/featured-collection/products/los-angeles-dodgers-2024-world-series-panoramic-poster-must-have-art-1