Smoky Mountains Light Trails: How I Shot and Edited This Photo

Long-exposure autumn road in Great Smoky Mountains, Tennessee. Museum-grade photography print, multiple sizes & finishes, signed by Chris Fabregas.

The Idea

I wanted to capture that quiet, electric feeling of a fall evening drive in the Smokies—when the forest goes dark, the road glows, and the mountains feel endless. The S-curve on this mountain road was perfect: double-yellow lines leading the eye, dense trees framing the scene, and just enough traffic to paint the light trails.

Scouting & Safety

  • Location: A winding stretch inside Great Smoky Mountains National Park with a clear S-curve and a safe pull-off.

  • Time: I arrived about 30 minutes before sunset to compose in daylight, then stayed through blue hour when the sky goes deep and tail lights pop.

  • Safety: I parked fully off the road, wore a reflective vest, and kept my tripod behind the guardrail. For light-trail shots, safety comes first—no exceptions.

Gear I Used

  • Camera: Full-frame Nikon D850

  • Lens: 24–70mm (shot around 35–45mm)

  • Tripod: Solid, low center of gravity

  • Filters: NONE

  • Remote / 2-sec timer: To avoid shake

  • Headlamp: Red light mode to preserve night vision

Camera Settings (starting point)

These will vary by conditions; here’s what worked for this scene:

  • Mode: Manual

  • Shutter: ~10 - 15 seconds (slow enough to draw continuous red lines)

  • Aperture: f/8–f/11 (sharp front to back, crisp lines)

  • ISO: 64 (clean file for big prints)

  • Focus: Manual focus on the road ~⅓ into the frame, then switch AF off

  • White Balance: ~3800–4200K (cooler blue-hour tones that make reds pop)

Tip: If traffic is light, shoot an interval series (10–20 frames) and later stack the best trails in Photoshop.

In the Field: How the Exposure Came Together

  1. Compose for the S-curve. I placed the curve in the lower third so the road pulls you into the forest.

  2. Lock the tripod & level. Subtle horizon tilt is obvious on prints.

  3. Test exposures. I started at 4s and lengthened until the red lines connected smoothly.

  4. Shoot multiple passes. I captured several sequences as cars passed—some had cleaner, brighter trails than others. I didnt want the white lights od=f the cars coming up the road as I felt that would hinder the image.

  5. Guard the highlights. I kept the histogram slightly left to preserve depth in the trees; over-bright roads can look flat.


My Editing Workflow (Lightroom → Photoshop → Lightroom)

1) Lightroom Classic: Base & Color (RAW)

  • Profile: Adobe Color (then fine-tune)

  • Basic:

    • Exposure: +0.15 to +0.30 (just to lift midtones)

    • Contrast: +10–20

    • Highlights: –30 (keep detail in the road reflections)

    • Shadows: +15 (open the trees slightly, not too much)

    • Whites: +10 | Blacks: –10 for depth

  • White Balance: Nudge cooler (~4000K) to deepen the forest and amplify red/amber trails.

  • Tone Curve: Gentle S-curve: lift lights a touch, drop darks slightly for mood.

  • HSL:

    • Reds: Hue –5, Sat +10, Luma +5 (cleaner, richer trails)

    • Oranges/Yellows: Sat +5–10; Luma –5 (richer foliage without neon)

    • Greens: Hue +5, Sat –5 to tame overly green cast in the canopy

  • Detail:

    • Denoise AI: 15–25 (blue-hour ISO is low but this smooths dark greens)

    • Sharpen: 40–60, Radius 0.8–1.0, Masking 60–80 (protect smooth areas)

2) Local Adjustments (Lightroom)

  • Linear Gradients:

    • From top: –0.2 EV exposure, +contrast to deepen the ceiling of trees

    • From bottom road edge: +0.15 EV, +clarity +10 for subtle road presence

  • Brush: Dodge the centerline (double yellow) +0.10 EV; Burn bright grass patches –0.15 EV.

  • Color Grading: Midtones + warm shift (small), Shadows + blue/teal (very small). The micro contrast between cool forest and warm trails sells the mood.

3) Photoshop: Clean-Up & Trail Blend

  • Remove distractions: Clone/Heal reflective debris, bright leaves at frame edges, and any road signs that pull attention.

  • Stacking light trails (optional): Load multiple frames as layers → set top trail layers to Lighten blend mode → mask in the best streaks.

  • Subtle vignette: Curves layer, darken mid-tones, paint off the road and trail lines to focus the eye.

4) Return to Lightroom: Print-Ready Finishing

  • Global check: Ensure blacks aren’t crushed (<5) and highlights aren’t clipped.

  • Soft proofing:

    • Choose media profile (e.g., Hahnemühle Photo Rag or Luster ICC).

    • Slight +5 to +8 Vibrance often compensates for matte papers.

  • Export (print master): 16-bit TIFF, Adobe RGB, 300 ppi, no output sharpening.

  • Export (web): 2048px long edge, sRGB, 80–85% JPEG, standard screen sharpening.


What Makes This Image Work

  • Leading lines: The S-curve + double yellow pulls the viewer deep into the frame.

  • Color contrast: Cool forest vs warm red trails.

  • Timing: Blue hour provides saturation and depth without blowing highlights.

  • Simplicity: No sky, no clutter—just mood, motion, and a path forward.

Troubleshooting You Might Run Into

  • Trails look broken: Lengthen shutter (6–10s) or wait for steadier traffic.

  • Everything’s too bright: Drop ISO to 100, close to f/11, or add a 3-stop ND.

  • Green cast in the forest: Cool white balance and reduce Green saturation a touch in HSL.

  • Wind blur in leaves: Shorten shutter a bit and stack multiple frames for trails.


Print Notes (for Collectors)

  • Best sellers: 16×24 and 24×36 on Archival Luster for balanced punch and detail.

  • For a modern, ready-to-hang look: Metal (float-mount) or Acrylic face-mount add depth to the reds and glossy road tones.

  • Each print is inspected and signed; a Certificate of Authenticity is available on request.


Want This on Your Wall?

Explore sizes and finishes here: Smoky Mountains Light Trails – Shop the Print

https://chrisfabregasfineartprints.com/products/smoky-mountains-light-trails-photography-print-tennessee-wall-art-1?utm_source=copyToPasteBoard&utm_medium=product-links&utm_content=web


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